Hydra
Hydra was our first visit to the Saronic islands and having spent a lot of time in the Cyclades it has a totally different feel, topography and climate. Hydra is the type of island you never want to leave. It has been a playground for the rich and famous and inspiration to stars and creators of all kinds. Stepping off the ferry it is easy to see why. By law, cars and motorbikes are not allowed leaving all transportation to walking, donkeys or water taxi. This has allowed the island to remain preserved in many ways. The the town is small enough to manage on foot and adds to the general character of the entire visit. It is hilly, so be prepared to climb and explore many windy stairways and hidden alleyways around the hidden beaches and ports.
Although it is a more upscale island due to its history and proximity to Athens we found an amazing hotel on booking.com called Nereids. We also found the food to be some of the tastiest and reasonably priced for the quality. Having heard that Rick Steve's favorite restaurant in the Europe is in Hydra we set out to find it on the first night. We followed the olive tree lined path from the hotel to a winding cobblestone alley with a simple unmarked red door. After ten paces through the door wondering if we were lost, we came to lit up patio eatery sitting underneath a giant olive tree known as Kryfo Limani. Mind you it was only 9pm (early for dinner) so there was a table available and we sat for what would be the first of many ultra memorable meals in Hydra. The stuffed grape leaves were the best we have ever had. Soaked in avoglemano sauce and chock full of delicious spices this was a treat beyond measure. The family style, romantic setting, service and food were simply superb and it has become a happy place to return when reminiscing on all of our travels. Another stand out was Xeri Elia Douskus in the middle of a square under hanging lights in an olive grove. There we had the finest Kleftiko or oven roasted, Greek style lamb upon recommendation of the super friendly maitre d'. Whilst dining we were told that Leonard Cohen spent many a night under the same lights and would do his writing there while he had his dinner and enjoyed the same white wine we were tasting. Pink Floyd, the Rolling Stones, the Beatles and Led Zepplin were also frequent visitors to Hydra and I could feel why as the island and its charms set in and did its work.
Thankfully there are no cars allowed on Hydra. The main method of transportation and labor are donkeys and horses
Donkeys being used for labor and also to carry tourist luggage
Delicious breakfast featuring fresh Greek Yogurt, Dakos and breads.
The walk to our hillside hotel was lined with gorgeous olive trees
Kryfo Limani
Lamb Kleftiko in the center of Hydra at Xeri Elia Douskos
