Hamasaki | Karatsu
Hamasaki & Karatsu , Saga Prefecture, Kyushu Island, Japan
STAY: Sea Style Resort & YOYAKU
DO: try and be there during the Hamasaki Gion Festival
HIKE: the Niji-no-Matsubara pine forest
JULIO
We took the train from Fukuoka to the Northwest side of Kyushu into the Saga prefecture to explore the beach side towns of Hamasaki and Karatsu on a whim not knowing what to expect. Being on foot, we booked a hotel not too far from Hamasaki station that appeared to be on the beach. We were blown away by just how lovely, untouched and serene this area and coastline are. The views were reminiscent of Hawai'i or some other Polynesian perfection with the exception of far off five level Karatsu castle watching over the long seaboard.
We came out of tiny Hamasaki station walked to the coast to our hotel in the scorching five o'clock heat. We dropped our bags and headed straight for the beach and saw the most beautiful sunset we may have ever witnessed. Japan is so beautiful in the countryside and holds a stark contrast to the teched out sprawling modern cities that seems to make it even more memorable when you find it. Hamasaki was no exception and stole our hearts as we explored miles of unspoiled coastline and stellar views with not a person in sight.
Our beach walk familiarized us with the area and we had seen that next to the hotel and on the beach was a large pine forest that terminated in the nearby town of Karatsu. Niji-no-Matsubara pine forest is one of the oldest and cherished in Japan and it was easy to see why. Forrest bathing is a thing in Japan and we thoroughly enjoyed the cool breeze through the trees and sound of Karatsu Bay lapping onto the shore from the coastal tree walk all the way into Karatsu town.
We explored the town of Karatsu by wandering the Gofukumachi Shopping District, the Hikiyama Exhibition Hall, Karatsu castle and its history museum. The town is a rich hotbed of Samurai lore, history, armor making and pottery studios which can be reflected in the beautiful and detailed floats used in their autumn festival which are on display all year at Hikiyama Exhibition Hall. The legendary the intricate floats have been built by woodworkers and craftsmen that make samurai armor since the late 1700's and are awe inspiring, colorful and just fun.
After a long day exploring Karatsu we walked back into Hamasaki to see a few people walking towards the center of town in Japanese festival garb which basically means, no pants. We thought perhaps we should go investigate and believe it or not there was the town's major parade and festivities starting in just few hours.
Exhausted we decided to head back to the hotel to rest for a few hours before coming back out for the parade. On the way back a massive downpour began and we got trapped together under the eves of a pagoda. It was raining so hard we just had to wait it out as water was gathering and pooling in the streets in massive quantities. We sat and watched the beautiful rain come down on the old city and to me there is just something so romantic and picturesque about Japan in the rain. It really is, one of my favorite things. We put on some Japanese traditional music and just watched it rain hand in hand. It was awesome.
After the rain subsided, we had just a few minutes before the scheduled start of the festivities. We came back out and saw that the whole town had come out to the square around the main town shrine called Suwa . As we headed down the street we began to see more and more festival garb donned men and then the additional stars of the parade...5 meter high tremendously decorated glowing floats. These floats are the tallest in Japan and weigh five tones pulled and managed by fifty men, boys and girls. We had really stumbled into the right place as this festival is known to be one of the oldest and richest cultural experiences in the entire country and would prove unforgettable. (pics and videos below)
We both approached the first float and were simply dumbfounded at the size and detail of Samurai scenes and battle stories all told through intricate dolls all set on a backdrop of waves and ocean replete with fish and sea life all made by hand. We both agreed that we had never seen anything like it in our entire lives. While we stood dumbfounded an old man approached us in a red headband and handed us a candle lit lamp and signaled with his hands to take a picture with the float. It turned out we was the village boss and chief of the grand marshals and we all took turns taking pictures together in front of the float which was just so kind of them.
As the excitement ramped up more people gathered around the floats and the repetitive measures of flute, shamisen and beating of the commanding taiko drums began as the floats made their way down the main drag to the front of Suwa Shrine. Within a few minutes the sound and sights seemed to have a psychedelic effect as did all the parade lights reflecting of the black pavement still wet from the deluge. The sound of the wooden wheels creaking as crowds pulled the floats along inch by inch made a long wailing sound that almost sounded like a haunting melody over the musicians. The floats would be pulled/pushed for about five city blocks and then turned repeatedly in front of the shrine before returning to the starting line, followed by the next float of which there were three. The whole parade/festival took place for three hours and by the rime it was done it seemed like a dream. We were the only Westerners that participated and it was simply unforgettable.
The parade's intention is a ritual prayer for large catches of fish, good harvests, health and business prosperity for the year. It has occurred in Hamasaki on the third Saturday of July since Japan's Showa period. It is unknown how long it has been practiced but the public records do indicate that it began as the ritual solution to a great epidemic that plaqued the area and that in the early 1900's the newly added power and telephone lines were taken down and replaced so that the 20 foot high floats could pass through the streets unencumbered.
The poster for the Hamasaki Gion festival