Jeju Island
julio
Only a short flight from bustling Busan, Jeju-do or Jeju is a Korean island getaway riddled with volcanic mountains, beaches, waterfalls and resplendent nature. Known as Korea's chic honeymoon and getaway destination full of odd museums, family activities, food and fun, Jeju was once the site of a bloody massacre where approximately 15,000-30,000 leftists were killed after WWII under watch of the United States. Jeju has since made a complete transformation into the go-to Korean holiday hot-spot and it's easy to see why. The nature is incredible and it has its own unique island culture punctuated by the Haenyeo (female divers), Dol hareubangs (sentinal statues that are considered Gods of Protection) and the Olle hiking trails that circle the island.
From the moment we arrived, we felt a mystical, almost haunted vibe which was punctuated by the many basalt Dol hareubang statues around every corner known as "the grandfathers of the island" who keep watch over the place in the spirit realm. Although Jeju City is the main hub and where the airport is, we decided to have our base in the southern city of Seogwipo. Centrally located and close to the water, Seogwipo is accessible to good hikes and has a smaller port city/town feel then its slightly more bustling counterpart Jeju-si or city. We found a too-good-to-be-true deal on a hotel in Seogwipo through Agoda at the First 70 Hotel and were ready for the other shoe to drop when we arrived but it never did, it was pure perfection. The late June shoulder season time of year proved to be ideal crowd-wise with low rates as Koreans were not yet visiting in droves and the controversial Chinese tourists have stopped coming due to political disagreements with South Korea over an American sponsored missile defense system.
We ended up with a stunning ocean view from our room and were walking distance to the local and vibrant Maeil Olleh Market surrounded by activities for less than $40USD a night. We paid more for considerably less luxury in India, if that makes any sense. We have been shocked by the high standards of quality of restaurants and even convenience store food which is better than most three star restaurants in the US and the ice cream confections here are out of this world. Krunky, a green tea ice cream covered in chocolate by Lotte Foods is a must try.
We have been enjoying the Olle trail system that circles the island with immaculately manicured trails and paths showing off the stunning surroundings and neighboring islands. There seems to be music everywhere and the local people are down-to-earth, respectful and dignified. A perfect place for finishing up some work and introducing ourselves to the wondrous natural world of Korea while not paying Seoul prices.
After two weeks in Seogwipo we moved over to Jeju City and enjoyed its coastal walks, bustling Dongmun market and slightly more urban feel. There is incredible fresh seafood around every corner and this is where we tried our new favorite dessert PatBingsu at Jeju Desert Cafe. Bingsu is a shave ice confection with various toppings in which traditionally was served with sweet red bean, nut powder and rice cakes dating back to the 1300's. Although the weather was a little cloudy and rainy while we were there the sunsets we saw were jaw-dropping and the cloud formations in Jeju are something to behold and be in wonder of mother natures handiwork.
christina
Jeju Island is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage and Biosphere Reserve and is known for its natural beauty. One of the reasons we decided to go there was because we had heard from our Korean friend Namhee of the walking trails that circumvent the island. Known as the Jeju Olle, these trails are inspired by the Camino de Santiago in Spain and are set up in 21 consecutive segments with additional offshoots.
The Olle system was named after the Jeju dialect word “olle,” meaning “a narrow path leading to one’s doorstep.” It was initiated by ex-journalist Suh Myung-suk who, after 23 years of a fast-paced Seoul career, went to walk the Camino to slow down and relax. She was inspired by her healing journey and the contrast it provided with the big city life she had grown accustomed to. When she returned to South Korea, she decided to build a trail system on her native Jeju by restoring old walking paths and creating new ones.
First opened in 2007, the trails now circle the whole island and cover 422km (262 miles) with each segment averaging approximately 16km (10 miles). What started as a few people walking a little over a decade ago, has turned into a major tourism draw for the island with walkers into the hundreds of thousands per year. Most visitors come from South Korea but international tourists are increasing as word has spread about the trails.
In this interview in the Jeju Weekly, Myung-suk talks about Koreans’ hectic and stressful lives and the resultant high suicide rate in her country. She speaks of the emotional impact of the Olle and says that people come to walk the trails in order to experience “a new paradigm of vacationing” in order to connect with each other and with Nature.
Based on what I read, it seems like her contribution to Jeju and the extended South Korean community cannot be overstated. It’s also worth noting that the whole project was coordinated through community efforts with no capital investment or government support - simply incredible and a testament to what our potential is as individuals working together.
Turns out the Olle has been so popular in South Korea that regional districts are now implementing the same system throughout the country. We even saw a Kyushu Olle in Japan modeled after this great idea and there are apparently friendship trails throughout the world with a growing network. Olle seem to be a back-to-nature movement, and one that is so needed in our hyper-mediated world.
With our hotel based in Seogwipo city on the southern coast of Jeju, we were able to hike out on 2 of the trails during our time on the island. It was such a treat to experience Olle Route 6 and Olle Route 7 in order to really see, experience and get a feel for the vast natural beauty of the island without having to rent a car. Though it would have been great to do the whole circuit (next time!), we didn’t have a month to fully devote and were grateful to be able to easily walk on and off the trails where we wanted to.
Before we hiked, we luckily found an Olle Information kisok in the parking lot of the Jeonbang Waterfall. I would suggest heading there or to the main information center in town first if you’re based in Seogwipo and considering doing the walks. The staff were very informative, spoke English and gave us detailed help on planning our course. Without that visit, it would have been hard to navigate around Jeju as the information on-island in English is limited, especially regarding the local buses if you are not renting a car. (There is however, a very detailed guidebook online in English that I would recommend having a look at.)
Thankfully, once you’re on the trail blue and orange ribbons line your path and signify the direction you are walking. They are tied onto signposts, trees and bushes so that you can see them above eye level at a distance. There are also signs and arrows pointing the way but are fewer and farther between. Throughout the island you may come across these signs, arrows, ribbons or even what look like little animal markers, which are actually known as Ganse (or ponies). Even if you are not hiking an entire Olle segment, you can walk for a bit along the trail and get to experience some beautiful side streets and vistas.
With map in hand, we first set out early in the morning and headed in reverse direction along the relatively easy Olle 6 from Seogwipo to Soesokkak. Since the humidity was killer, we worked out with the information center which bus to take back from the end of the segment.
We started in town and passed through the Maeil Olleh Market, heading down toward the coast via Lee Jung Seop Street, an artsy area including unique vendors and cute cafes. We then proceeded past the Seobok exhibition hall and past a beautiful pagoda and garden that we had all to ourselves. Descending past the Jeonbang waterfall, we walked along the coast and settled into the breeze coming off the water until we came across a smaller waterfall called Sojeongbang. After heading what seemed to be off-course up a paved road and then down a paved road we were back on the coast and all by ourselves again for the rest of the hike.
Walking past volcanic seascapes and the surrounding giant land forms was breathtaking. We even were able to witness Jeju’s famous Haenyo, or female sea divers, taking in their day’s catch. There were Dol Hareubang, Jeju’s protector grandfather statues, along one part of the trail. The entire journey was filled with magic and helped us to slow down and reconnect with each other and Nature, exactly the intention.
Since we loved Route 6 so much we decided to walk part of Olle 7 too and it did not disappoint. The weather was a bit overcast and turned into rain in the afternoon, so we only made it from the starting point to a bit past the Oedolgae Observatory. The trail itself was beautiful and gifted us an amazing vista of Cheonjiyeon Falls with Mt. Hallasan in the distance. This view alone is worth walking on the first part of the trail.
The island is dominated by Hallasan – the approximately 1,950m (6,400ft) high volcano that is the tallest mountain in South Korea. On a clear day, you can turn your head and always see it – it’s incredible and breathtaking. This route had many views of the volcano that had us bewitched.
After peeling ourselves away from the waterfall in the distance, the trail went through a wonderful local neighborhood and then turned up a hill for quite a distance; it was a bit challenging and we weren’t quite expecting it since the previous hike had been so easy. The view from the top though was unforgettable and allowed us to see Seogwipo city at a distance with the majestic volcano.
We then descended through an enchanted forest over a very long series of steps and arrived at Oedolgae Rock. While beautiful, I wasn’t that impressed with the rock itself but with the beautiful surroundings it was set in. Exploring around the park, I found I had officially fallen in love with the mystical and serene Jeju. Heading back in the rain was a mystifying experience as we settled into island time.
It was such a gift to be able to connect with this sacred land and experience the gifts of Jeju. The Olle really added to the experience of “slow travel,” and gave us the opportunity to sample the trails without fully committing to packing a backpack and camping gear for our trip.
If you’re looking for a few days in Jeju to get acquainted with the Olle, I would definitely recommend Routes 6 and 7. Here’s an article that ranks the trails if you want more information on the other routes.
Mt. Hallasan
These statues are known as the grandfathers of the island and are places everywhere
The Seogwipo coast walk with a giant sculpture resembling a sail
Christina with a Dol hareubang
Traditional Korean dinner from resteraunt Ankeori Pakeori
anchovies
convenience store breakfast
Korea is full of art
convenience store lunch
FOOD FACTS: Jeju is known for its citrus harvest, black pork, and a plethora of various seafood dishes