Seminyak
Our hotel view from breakfast at the Visala
Morning delivery of Canang Sari or delicacies to the gods. Flowers, foods, drinks and sometimes even cigarettes to the unseen.
christina
Arriving back in Bali, I am immediately reminded of the deep connective, creative and inspirational charge of this place. From the design of a cafe, to the intricate carvings of the temples, every detail in Bali has an intentional, sacred nature to it that is inexplicable, charming and deeply enchanting and mystical. One is immediately entrenched in the cultural practices of this land that combine Animism with a unique brand of Hinduism.
Daily offerings of Canang Sari are found on the streets, in front of homes and shops and on shrines given in thanks to Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa (the Unthinkable, Unity, Supreme God in Balinese Hinduism - similar to Brahma). Culture and customs pervade throughout daily life where religion drives cultural identity and combines with the arts, including theater, music, dance and painting. Music is ever-present and the varied uses of the Gamelan (a percussive orchestra) can be heard walking the streets for different events in life (birth, death, marriage etc); it is bewitching and meditative - have a listen here. The Barong Dance, epitomizing the eternal battle between good and evil as represented by the lion-like Barong and his enemy Rangda can be seen in the streets during festivals and at cultural performances throughout the island. The hypnotic Kecak performance immortalizes the Hindu Ramayana epic for locals and tourists alike. Balinese arts have a long tradition that have been passed generation-to-generation and encompass painting, woodwork, stone carving, silversmithing, jewelry design and more. You can feel the artistic creativity here in every breath and it's all driven by the resounding connection to Spirit.
This Spirit that I speak of, is echoed by every person who visits here - and I think, is the true reason people come back and continue to preach about this special place. From talking with locals and to researching the subject, I can only begin to scratch the surface but here's what I have started to find. The Animistic culture of Bali is based originally on Water, and from this connection to Water they developed Agama Tirtha - their brand of Hindusim - the Religion of Holy Water. Revered as life-giving, Holy Water is used to initiate and complete every ritual in Balinese culture. Their irrigation system, known as Subak, feeds the beautiful rice terraces that Bali is known for and connects with the temples. Water management is localized and organized by the priests at each water temple who maintain Tri Hita Karana Philosophy - a balance between humans, the Earth and the Gods. The Subak irrigation system is therefore the outward expression of the spiritual philosophy with the resulting Rice as a gift from God. The whole system is connected and holistically systematized through rituals of the temple culture and the arts that are passed down. Anthropologists have uncovered that the Balinese political system and its connection to Rice as a provider are actually enshrined in this network of Water Temples that exist throughout the island and consider it to be the true and pervasive political system of the island that outlives any nation-state conception. This is fascinating, especially in our modern ecological global crisis. What can we learn from Bali in it's original and connective nature to the land and the creative arts that maintains this system of reverence for Nature and thus sustenance in the form of both Spirit and Food?
JULIO
After two months in India we were both charmed and exhausted at the same time and certainly ready for some change. When we arrived to Bali it felt like an instant warm embrace and we gently slowed to the relaxing tempo of the island. We are almost shell shocked from the sensory overload that is India. There were such fewer loud sounds, people and obstacles than India. All of our favorite foods (except hummus) were suddenly available. The internet was racing. There was even a cool breeze in the air. We stayed at a really charming Balinese run hotel just off Jl. Petitenget called the Visala Hotel which we highly recommend as a budget friendly yet luxurious option.
Our last time in Bali we stayed in Ubud during monsoon season. Big mistake. It was hot, buggy and the village in which we stayed was several miles from town, making it drudgery to hike to the center. Seminyak was a much better situation in the center of everything, with more options. Walking distance to everything and lots of places to decompress from our two-month India extravaganza. We went to the local handicrafts district and saw the wealth of treasures that Indonesia produces and saw the inventory of every Cost Plus, Pier One and furniture store for a fraction of the price.
We walked the long and gorgeous (yet turbulent) beaches and sat for drinks, thrilled at the sunsets and gazed at high-flying Balinese kites to ward of evil spirits. There is no shortage of overpriced beach clubs like KuDeTa, Woo bar at the W hotel, PotatoHead, and Mrs,Sippy featuring high-profile Djs like Carl Cox and Danny Tenaglia which we explored as a treat at least once a weaweekk. Seminyak, although posh and somewhat touristy seems more democratic than most global beachside getaways. The lack of zoning laws, authority and control makes for exciting finds along the coast in the ways of hidden beach bars, restaurants and warungs (Balinese restaurants). The sidewalks, although shifty, make walking around palatable and easy to explore shopping and exploring more so than other areas of Bali.
The food in Bali is charming, and the go-to dish is Nasi Goreng which is like an egg fried rice served with Shrimp crackers. The local beer Bintang resembles Heineken and goes perfectly with a sunset or salty and savory food. After India, it was a welcome shift...light, relaxed, and stylish with just enough hammed-up "please the tourist" attitude. In ten years, Bali will have made the total change to a high-end tourist destination with many environmental problems as its high-paced growth seems uncontrollable and rabid. Nonetheless, it is splendid and replete with a unique ancient culture, warm local people, and a breathtaking landscape we will never forget.
Christina and Komang who became fast friends
Fresh coconuts for a hydrating work snack
Hanging with the Mala Kings men of Java at their shop
Morning avocado toast at Livingstone Cafe
the volcanos in the distance on a clear day from Seminyak
A floating flower mandala
The first real and delicious cappucino in two months.
Christina's Balinese best friend, beautiful and always cheerful Komang
