Mexico City
EAT Zefiro

EAT Zefiro

FIND The best street tacos and tamales

FIND The best street tacos and tamales

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Being in the United States all you hear about Mexico in the news is violence and some crap our current president is spewing. All this goes out the window when you experience the magic that is Mexico City or as its referred to there CDMX. Being the most populous city in North America, it is BIG and sometimes overwhelming but we found it well connected through public transportation, safe and charming beyond measure.

Mexico was originally built on the island of Lake Texacoco by the Aztecs in 1325 as Tenochtitlan and was later rebuilt after a siege by the Spanish. The entire city is built on the lake formed in a volcanic crater and due to this fact, the whole city is actually sinking three feet per year as water is extracted for drinking by the almost 9 million residents.

We stayed in several superb Airbnbs in the hip neighborhoods of La Condessa and Roma Norte. With wide, tree-lined streets, art nouveau mansions and well-maintained art deco apartment buildings, the neighborhoods have a distinctly European and hipster vibe. There is delicious street food, sit down kiosks on every corner and local roving markets called tianguis that pop up out of nowhere for the day that are great to eat at or find some cheap groceries. 

Some of our highlights in Mexico city where not just the city, food, locations but some on the intangible ones. Most of all, the people. The Mexican people are perhaps the kindest, warmest, hardest working, most welcoming and fun to be around people we have encountered traveling the world. It was also tremendously enlightening to go to the Castillo de Chapultepec and be reminded of  the mostly unknown checkered political history between the United States and Mexico. Primarily what stood out is that the US and Mexico were at war from 1846 to 1848 during the Mexican War (hence "the Halls of Montezuma" line from the US Marine song Anchors Away) where then following, the Mexican Republic of Texas was annexed to the United States. Following the  Mexican American War the U.S. had acquired over 500,000 sq. miles of new land, including the Mexican territories that would eventually become the states of California, Arizona, New Mexico — and comprise significant parts of Colorado, Utah, Wyoming and Nevada. These facts kind of put a different perspective on the whole illegal immigration debate considering it was their land in the first place.

Another fascinating and inspiring aspect of being in Mexico was the rich indigenous culture and history. Prior to the arrival of Europeans, Mexico was home to Olmec, Maya, Teotihuacan, Toltec, and Aztec civilizations with advanced earth technologies, culture and rituals. Mexico recognizes over 62 indigenous languages spoken such as Náhuatl , Maya , Zapoteco , Mixteco  Otomí , Tzeltal , Tztotzil , Totonaca , Mazateco  and Chol being the highest percentages of indigenous language speakers evolving from pre-European contact. Generally, indigenous Mexicans live more poorly than non-indigenous Mexicans however, social development varies between states, different indigenous ethnicities and between rural and urban areas. Just how deep and astounding these cultures were and are was brought home by visiting the Museo Nacional and archeological sites like Teotihucan.

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Our first swank apartment

Our first swank apartment

We bounced between the hip and charming neighborhoods of Condessa and Roma Norte which would be later battered in the September earthquake. We just missed it.

These local markets are called tianguis. The original farmer's market.

This was our fave vegan spot to eat. Vegan is big in CDMX

This was our fave vegan spot to eat. Vegan is big in CDMX

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Treasures from Teotihuacan with the original coloring

Treasures from Teotihuacan with the original coloring

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Treasures from the house of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera

Treasures from the house of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera

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The museum is built around a giant tree of life fountain.

The museum is built around a giant tree of life fountain.

The chanting flower prince

The chanting flower prince

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The angel of independence in the center of Paseo de la Reforma. People think Mexico is backwards, Reforma rivals 5th Avenue

The angel of independence in the center of Paseo de la Reforma. People think Mexico is backwards, Reforma rivals 5th Avenue

The Museo Soumaya which contains the personal art collection of Mexican Impresario Carlos Slim.

The Museo Soumaya which contains the personal art collection of Mexican Impresario Carlos Slim.

The museum is free to the public and contains a collection ranging from Degas to Rivera valued at $700 million

The museum is free to the public and contains a collection ranging from Degas to Rivera valued at $700 million

Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)

Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)

Diego Rivera's famous Man at the Crossroads Mural

Diego Rivera's famous Man at the Crossroads Mural

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Mole at El Cardenal

Mole at El Cardenal

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Aztec Ruins and Great Museum in Zocalo area

Aztec Ruins and Great Museum in Zocalo area

FOOD FACTS: Mexico is one of the cradles of human agriculture with the Mesoamericans developing domesticated plants such as maize, beans, tomatoes, squash, avocados, and cacao. Mexico’s main crops include grains such as corn and wheat, tropical fruits and various vegetables. Agricultural exports are important, especially coffee, tropical and winter fruits also vegetables. Sixty percent of Mexico’s agricultural exports go to the United States