Kovalam
christina
We had intended to spend another few weeks exploring South India but instead found ourselves extremely comfortable and ready to settle into Kovalam’s seaside feel... The vibe is entirely different than the North, and I’m glad we went to Nepal first as arriving here was all about relaxing and kicking back. As yogis, we were aware that Kerala state has the longest unbroken tradition of Ayurveda – the ancient Indian medical and philosophy system that draws on physical, mental and spiritual health and has been around for ~5,000 years. Ayurveda is so popular in this part of India that is considered primary care, as opposed to complementary, and has been passed down generation to generation. For more information on this fascinating living tradition and healthcare system see this description. We had heard that this is the best place to receive Panchakarma – which is a set of detoxification therapies that aim to eliminate toxins and re-balance doshas – or types of elements – of the body. Due to the tropical climate, the herbs and medicinal plants used in the practice are in abundance here and always fresh.
Our treatments took place with the talented Dr. Hema and her team at the Merryland Ayurvedic Center for less than the cost of a few doctor visits back home. They say that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so after what was supposed to be one or two sessions we committed to the whole program – 3 continuous weeks, every day for about 2 hours a day. It was life-changing and I swear my skin hasn’t looked this good since I was 16. Here's a video from her website that details the process.
To start the plan we each met separately with Dr. Hema wherein she did an intake with us, asking about our medical histories, any concerns and general holistic body questions like how do you sleep, how is your digestion etc. She also took my pulse which is the customary way to determine imbalance in the energetic body. Once she determined our needs, we each were given a different customized plan that generally followed the same 2 hour schedule. We would arrive each day in the morning and meet our practitioners – male for Julio, female for me. We would then go to our individual rooms and were asked to remove all clothes – full nudity without embarrassment – this was a challenge at first, but after the treatment and the resulting effects I didn’t even notice. This is not a Western-style spa massage with towels covering your bits but a medicinal and therapeutic practice so you have to be able to surrender to it. After getting naked, I sat on a low stool and the woman that was working with me that day would take hot oil and rub it onto my head – sort of tuning in to me. I would then get on the table and receive a different 1-hour treatment each day depending on the plan the doctor had set up. There were some days that it was just an Abhyanga – or warm oil massage treatment with medicinal herbal oil that she crafted for each of us. Other days it was an herbal poultice massage with oil, an exfoliation treatment with coconut, a foot massage where someone literally stands over you and uses HER feet to walk on your back, or a milk bath. Each therapy and the continuity of treatments is prescribed based on your dosha – in my case, Vata imbalance. All the therapies felt intense but cleansing at a deep physical and energetic level.
After each therapy mentioned above, I would receive 30 minutes of bliss in the form of Shirodhara – or an oil massage of your third eye/forehead. The therapist warms the oil and it is poured slowly through a copper bowl with a hole on the bottom as she moves the bowl over your third eye constantly. This induces a meditation or dream state that is meant to calm the mind and relieve anxiety. While in this process, I experienced deep release and relaxation in addition to all kinds of old memories from childhood that came up for clearing (the 6th grade playground?!); many times I drifted and fell asleep. It was unlike anything else I’ve ever tried and I aim to be that relaxed in day-to-day life.
Once I was completely relaxed, the surprise element of Panchakarma would happen – an herbal oil enema. Having never tried this before, and being slightly skeptical, I can truly say that this was done with the utmost professionalism, safety, sterility and care. The oil that was used was formulated from herbs that were picked to match my particular ayurvedic imbalance. Each day a small enema was given and on every 7th day, I would receive a much larger amount of oil. The oil is meant to cleanse your colon from the inside and reset your intestines while the outer treatments that I mentioned above are meant to move the toxins through your body out through your digestive system or through your skin. After the small enema days, I would have to hold the oil in and then get into a private steam-box where you sit on a stool and then they close your whole body in with planks except for your head for about 20 minutes. This is meant to continue the sweating out of toxins that have come “up” through the treatments. Finally, after the sweat, you go into a private bathroom and have a scrub down with a coconut paste followed by a shower and leave for the rest of your day. You are meant to hold the oil enema in as long as possible but as soon as you go to the bathroom you release it. On the days where the larger enemas are given, there is no steam box as you are immediately releasing the oil almost as soon as it is given – the herbs in the larger enema are much stronger and are meant to purge out toxins immediately.
All in all, the entire 3 weeks was such a gift to ourselves. Each day after I left I felt a deep emotional detox process going on where I was releasing a lot of old anger, sadness, frustration and control. Things I hadn’t thought about since elementary school were coming up for clearing. Behavioral patterns that I have established due to the stories I told myself as a kid became extremely evident. Every day felt like there were new puzzle pieces being revealed as to why I am the way I am and how my body has internalized those things. In addition to the emotional patterning and understanding, the physical results cannot be understated. I felt so renewed, refreshed and energized – especially from our last few months on the road and constantly being in motion. I felt revitalized and ready to take on my life in a totally new way. I felt release of the past, of the things I didn’t even know I was still carrying – the old stories and wounds. I feel ready to take on my dreams and a childlike trust in the world once again. Apparently, in South India, people take Panchakarma very seriously and regularly do this treatment once a year – it is not just for outsiders or for those who can afford it but is a living cultural tradition – and I understand why! (Pregnant and postpartum women are also given special treatments to both prepare and heal the body during and after pregnancy). I wish we in the West would take our healing and re-balancing as seriously; I certainly know this will not be the last time I do this for myself and I encourage anyone reading this to do it (in India!) if you feel called.
Julio
Kovalam was a special kind of wrinkle in time which we will never forget. We found the perfect place to stay at the Paradesh Inn (out of a book) and settled into one of the most comfortable pockets of our entire trip. A magnificent beach side inn run by two devoted Vaishnava Italians that would feed us premium coffee and five star vegan cuisine while we reveled in Ayurvedic treatments a few blocks away. South India is tropical, hot and full of gorgeous beaches and marshlands. For some reason, it takes you by surprise and this kind of scenery is not what most think of when India comes to mind. It is divine, quieter and more introspective than the north. During festival season the air is pulsing with chants, holy songs and temple rituals. The town of Kovalam is also a hotbed for western yoga seeking students and Ayurvedic treatment centers. There was a group of Ashtanga yoga practicing females staying at the inn which made for a special eye into the western overachieving appetites for Asana and Yogic discourse, Lino Miele and David Gerrigues have made Kovalam their home for yearly summer workshops and the air is thick with sculpted bodies and Jois evangelism.
The South of India seemed so much more relaxed, personable and gentle in comparison to the North, If you are planning a trip I recommend beginning in the North and wrapping up in the South to decompress (weather permitting of course as it is scorching in the summer months). I had read about the incredible food of South India and was especially eager to try a typical breakfast known as Puttu - a combination of coconut and rice cooked in clay cylinders and then covered with various vegetable or chickpeas. I would ask a few local friends where to get the best Puttu and they would proudly exclaim that theirs or their mother's was the best in town. The next day without fail several times i would receive tiffins full of piping hot Puttu that was absolutely divine. This really reflects the generosity and kindness of the people we found and adored in Kovalam.
Another notable experience was that every night without fail at 3am the incredibly loud sounds of prayers and holy songs would ring out through the valley played through the impressive PA systems of the local temples. Some of the bhajans and slokas we were familiar with but some mystified us and would blend into our slumber making for enhanced South Indian dream states. When a festival day would arrive the sound's volume were pushed to fever pitch and it was more akin to a rock concert or rave. It was beautiful and nobody complained.
Taro in India. Known as arvi
The enchanted roof deck of the perfect Paradesh Inn
Never see this before.
I promise we were coaxed into doing this
We went to a local festival and reveled in local dance and culture on the beach
Below is where we received our two weeks of daily ayurvedic treatments Mery Land under Dr. Hema
This was a steam box you would sit in
This is a specialized oil dripped continuously on the forehead called Shirodara. Exquisite
The treatments would bring up lots of emotions.
This is traditional Keralan breakfast called Puttu. Coconut and rice cakes with channa masala on top. INCREDIBLE
Julio expressed his love for Puttu and would be treated to much Puttu by the locals. Beloved friend and Ma Usha and a very happy Julio
We made friends with Kashmiri merchant Hassan and whom we would purchase many Pashmina scarves and shawls from.
Another buddy Ajay who had a whole new wardrobe of clothes made for us.
FOOD FACTS: Government Agricultural College of Kovalam is quite famous and considered one of the finest agricultural colleges of India. Established in 1955, the college has made significant contributions in the Indian agricultural system as through its research many new and fruitful agricultural techniques are being invented as well as a strong push towards organic farming.