Granada
STAY Santa Isabel la Real or this great pension El Granado
JULIO
Granada is such a charming Andalusian city, this is where Spain and its history really come alive. The home of the world famous Alhambra, birthplace of flamenco and a super hip college town…Granada has a ton to offer. The city is filled with gorgeous public spaces, plazas, long city walks full of old couples walking hand in hand and groups of young people enjoying being together. We found that due to the college town aspect in Granada, it has a lot of youthful cool which was a fresh taste after Cordoba which feels a little more mature.
A visit to Granada is not complete without a visit to the Alhambra palace and gardens. Since our trip is fairly spontaneous we had not bought tickets in advance (don't make this mistake: buy your Alhambra tickets on this official website) and sadly the online sales were booked for the next two months after our arrival! The only way to see it would be to wait online early in the morning and hope for one of the eight hundred tickets available daily at the gate. We woke up at 5am and continuing in our tradition of self-torture of walking everywhere we began our ascent up to the top of the city to enter the queue.
It was a little longer than we anticipated which seems to be an ongoing joke of this whole trip how we end up walking everywhere and don't take the easy way by taxi. Anyways, we made it up the hill and thought we would be one of the first but there were lots of people in line already. We got our places and proceeded to wait an hour+ until the ticket machines opened. (If you're doing this, make sure you get on the ticket machine line, not the clerk-run box office (taquilla) line - it goes way faster and they are different; both lines will be long.) Luckily, I brought some yummy Spanish treats so we picnicked in line while others stared longingly.
Here is another scenario where you intermingle with the many citizens of the world. The throngs of Asians, young families traveling with children, unique couples, college travelers and many more. What a world we live in. We finally entered the Alhambra ticket area and were overjoyed to get some of the last available tickets for the morning session. Entering was like the opening of a Disneyland theme park. People running, shoving and racing to get their first glimpse of the wondrous park. We began in the gorgeous gardens and then made our way to the actual structure. The Alhambra is pretty much indescribable. Pictures do not quite do it justice but hopefully they will bring across a taste of its beauty.
After a long day at the Alhambra we relaxed and prepared for an evening of flamenco music at El Chien Andalou. An old cylindrical bar in the bowels of the Alhambra sweating with sound and delicious Spanish wine. As the music began, I was overcome by the sounds of sorrow and romance that the music purveys. Such a magical mix of cultures. So much Spanish pride, sex and feeling come across in every guitar strum, wail and step. We had already seen a host of Spanish guitar shows in Barcelona at the concert hall but here in Andalusia is where flamenco lives, breathes and emanates from the people. We headed back to our hotel floating from the experience.
christina
Wow Granada. So much here touched my heart. The Alhambra and it's everlasting stunning detail alongside the passion of the city and the rich history of Flamenco - absolutely incredible - the Spain I was searching for and the one that I had dreamed of.
The Alhambra is a masterpiece of art - there are no words to describe its majesty except to say that it is awe-inspiring and a testament to Creativity with a capital C. The intricate detail and sheer beauty of the inscriptions and patterns brings you into a state of meditation and bliss – I was later to find out that the inscriptions are manifold but generally invoke God and the blessings that come from above (as well as the Dynasty who created the place).
Around every corner is a treasure of sight and as someone who appreciates art I was blown away by the magnificence of the astounding repetition and the devotion it must have took to create such a work of art. To even imagine living within these walls is another fairytale all together. The gardens are laid out in such a way that you feel like a queen strolling through – it’s such a gift to be able to revel in this but also such a juxtaposition to the truth of the world where certain people get to live in castles and others outside of the walls…
Meanwhile the rest of Granada has this deep tie into the Roma culture and the caves outside of the city with their deep heritage of Flamenco. Watching Flamenco, and feeling into it evoked a deep sense of passion, of loss and of never-ending dimension and emotion. Witnessing it, I felt as if I were the one dancing and singing. It is one of the most beautiful and incredible movements I’ve ever seen. The comparison of this passion and deep emotion coupled with the amazing architecture and art of the Alhambra made for this incredible eye-opening and deeply enriching experience in Grenada – I’m already ready to go back
