Anavryti & Sparta
STAY Menelaion Hotel
christina
Entering the enchanting village of Anavryti, outside of Sparta, I was immediately struck with the knowing that I love the mountains and that same feeling of homecoming I had just had in Kastoria. I’ve been hiking for years after “discovering” it when I was in college – and have been all over the world, climbing mountains, visiting waterfalls, rafting rivers being in nature. Not exactly what would come naturally for someone who is from Long Island.
I’ve always had mystical experiences in the mountains when I visit and this trip was no different. It became quite apparent that this nature, this landscape is truly in my blood. Leading up to our trip to the village, I had some anxiety though not quite sure where it was coming from. I could only reflect on the fact that this place, so beautiful and so remote, was probably also a very difficult life to live.
The idealism that I bring to my view of it with fresh water flowing into the center of town was, I’m sure, combined with the lack of food or the remoteness of the village in the past. My mother lived here until she came to the United States when she was 11. The village now has approximately 30 people living there.
We found a quaint eco-B&B called Guesthouse Arhontiko online and booked a room. When we arrived, it was stunning – a restored old house with rooms overlooking the valley and right next to the church clock tower. What was most interesting is that extended family happened to be the other people staying in this tiny village guesthouse. Without my knowledge, my 2nd cousin and aunt just happened to be there on the same night as us. This is most interesting because we’ve been trying to get to the village for the last 2 weeks and each time we tried (from Crete via boat, from Kastoria via Meteora and Delphi, and from Athens the first time we kept getting stuck – the logistics didn’t work – the hotel was booked or the bus timetables didn’t line up or the ferry only left once a week!). Obviously, we were meant to be there at the same time - what a gift! Aside from connecting with my second cousin (who bears a true resemblance in spirit to my eldest female cousin Helen) it became obvious to me that this spectacular place is going to be part of our future.
The Peleponnese is unspoilt Greece and the history here is enchanting. In addition to the ancient connection to civilizations, I was enthralled to find the Museum of Olive Oil in the town of Sparta. It was an incredible experience to see the living history of this nourishing food as well as its impact on the world. Outside of Sparta and throughout the hillsides the land is covered by olive groves - the connection to the olive runs deep. I was in awe learning about the process of creating oil and the ways in which the oil has been a staple throughout time and across cultures as a provider of light and food among other things. Truly inspiring and incredible and reminded me why I love it so much!
JULIO
It's hard to believe anything could top the glory of Kastoria's landscapes but Anavryti’s mountaintop majesty was my favorite in Greece yet. Being the birthplace of Christina’s mother we set our sights for the now famous Sparta and returned to Athens to take the bus to the Peloponnese.
The adventure started early as the bus terminals and bus culture in Athens is quite different from anything I have ever experienced. The bus stations are not as modern as one might think in Europe and they are quite riddled with various characters approaching you asking for money or selling tissues. We had read so many awful things about pickpockets at transit stations that we were always feeling extra vigilant although we saw no criminal activity anywhere in Greece. It was of note that after one hour of travel on the way to Sparta the bus stopped for a group cigarette and snack break.
The city of Sparta was charming and historic as we enjoyed the Olive Oil museum and learning about the yearly Spartathlon that happens there every year. The magic really began once we were out of the city and took a long windy taxi ride up to the town of Anavryti where Christina's mother was born. The town lies on Mt.Taygetos on the E3 European long distance path which spans from the Balkan Mountains on the Serbian border to the Black Sea. This has made Anvaryti a destination for long distance hikers and nature enthusiasts and we were surprised to find many Swiss and German transplants moving into the small town. There are no hotels in the town except for a small guest house run by a charming couple called Guesthouse Arhontiko where we listened to late night Rebetiko played with passion by its enthusiastic and personable proprietor George.
We were told that there were two other people in the room next to us and as I explored the balcony of our room next to theirs a giant Eagle overhead crash landed into the church tower right in front of me. I called out to Christina to tell her about this omen and then the neighbors came out of their room to discuss the commotion and believe it or not we found out they were long lost second cousins of Christina's mother. Incredible.
There are two restaurants in town and we certainly wandered into the right one called Ta Kamaria Tis Anavrytis where a brother and sister team delivered us one of the most fabulous Greek dinners we have had overlooking the Spartan mountains. It was surreal and unforgettable.
We had been told by our hosts that we could avoid the dizzying taxi ride and save a few Euros by walking back to Sparta and since it was downhill we decided to go for it. A great choice as it was stunningly beautiful and filled with local goat and sheep herders, hidden Greek Orthodox churches in the cliffs and tremendous vistas.
Anavryti was an incredible adventure and it was such a blessing to see the roots and feel the tradition of my wife's rich family history on both sides. The magic and connection to our roots we had left seeking was being given to us around every corner and it was so fulfilling and exhilarating.
The symbol of Sparta
The museum of Olive Oil
Old mills for making olive oil
The Peloponnese mountains from Sparta
Another amazing Greek meal, Saganaki, Omelette, Horta (Dandelion Greens), Zuchini fritters
THIS IS ........SPARTAAA!!!
Christina's Mother's mountain village of Anavryti
Dining in the mountains at the only restaurant in town. Food was fab, this guy took a smoke break every 3 min. Priceless
The fresh well or Vrisi in the middle of the town
We hiked from Anavryti to Mystra. Long and gorgeous hike through the mountains - we were the only ones on the path.
This church was built up into mountains when Greeks had to hide to practice their faith during the Turkish occupation.
Christina's cousins we found by accident. They were the other guests in the guesthouse we stayed in.
Walking in the footsteps of her ancestors